Roadrunner Motorsports

How To:
How do I prep my Pocket Bike or Gas Racing Scooter?
Once you have mixed the gas/oil and fill your rocket pocketbike or gas racing scooter up. Next you will want to very slowly with a short pull. Extend the pull start chord out so you feel the motor turn over. When pulling the pull start chord out always use short strokes, this drastically extends the life of the bike. The slow pulling is siphoning the gas/oil into the Brand New (Completely Dry) motor chamber. This process will lube your rocket pocketbike or gas racing scooter piston and cylinder wall (The Motor) Repeat this process at least 20 times to make sure you have lubed your rocket pocketbike or gas racing scooter motor.

How do I adjust my Rocket PocketBike Carburetor?
Adjusting your Carburetor is quick and easy. Tuning your Carburetor will make sure your Rocket PocketBike starts with ease and goes super fast.
1. Check your fuel lines and make sure they are connected properly.
2. Make sure your fuel on/off lever is turned to the on position to let the flow of gas through. The on/off lever is the white thumb tab on your carburetor. If gas is leaking out of your pocketbike as soon as you do this, you will want to go to a scooter or pocketbike shop and get a fuel filter to put on your gas line of your pocketbike.
3. Put your choke lever to the on position. This may not necessarily be the same as how the on/off position is labeled on the bike. (When the choke is in the on position the lever will be covering (blocking) the intake hole, hence choking the pocketbike out)
4. Now find the screw on the side of the Carburetor that has a little spring on the shaft of it. This is your air/fuel mixture screw. If you have a Full Fairing (Fairings are the side plastics on the pocketbike) PocketBike you will have to take the Fairing off to see the carburetor. As a good starting point you will want to gently turn this screw all the way to the right till it stops. Then turn a full turn to the Left. Put your rocket pocketbike on the bike stand with the rear tire off of the ground. From here you will start the bike with the choke lever in the on position. (blocking the intake) Then turn the throttle lever a little so the pocketbike starts easier. Now you can pull the pull start with a short quick stroke. The bike should start with in 10 strokes.

How To Tune My Gas Racing Scooter or Large Full Fairing PocketBike (X-1, X-2, X-3,X-7, X-9) Carburetor?
Tuning the Carburetor for Gas Scooters or Large Full Fairing PocketBike: Gas Racing Scooters and Large Full Fairing Pocketbikes do not come pre-tuned, so follow these easy instructions and you will be on your way in no time. Follow the throttle cable down to the throttle assembly (The piece that turns) In the middle of the throttle assembly on your carburetor there is a flat head screw (Yes the Flat Head screw in the middle of the thing that turns), which is called the air/fuel mixture screw. This controls the amount of air and fuel your motor is receiving.
You are going to want to GENTLY but FIRMLY turn that screw all the way to the right. Then back it off (turn it to the left) a full turn. This will be your carburetors starting point. The screw with the spring on the shaft of it is your idle adjustment screw. Turn this screw all the way to the right. Then back it off a full turn to the Left. Prime the motor (push the squishy clear bubble 2 times) with the primer bulb. You are going to then prop the back wheel of the scooter off of the ground. Start the gas racing scooter or full fairing pocketbike (OUTSIDE, Not in a House or Garage) by putting the choke on position (blocking the intake) Then pull the pull cord with a short quick stroke (Do NOT pull the pull cord to end of the reel). The gas racing scooter should start with in 10 pulls.

How to Adjust Your Chain
Chains stretch. Thats what they do. Your chain is an integral part of your bike, so keeping it adjusted correctly and in good shape is very important.
THE TOOLS:

Large Adjustable wrench

10mm combo wrench (may vary depending on bike)

12mm combo wrench (may vary depending on bike)

Tape Measure or Chain Alignment Tool
STEP 1: Need Adjustment?
Check to see if your chain needs to be adjusted. As a rule of thumb, you want the chain to be tight if you place two fingers on the swingarm directly behind the chain guide (see step 5). If your chain is digging into your swingarm, shift lever or plastic, chances are you should adjust it.

STEP 2: Loosen Axle Nut
Using a large adjustable wrench (or a large combo if you have one), loosen the nut on the axle so that the wheel is free to move.

STEP 3: Adjuster Nuts
Loosen the lock nut on the chain adjusters. Start to tighten the chain by backing out the adjuster stems. Try to rotate the same amount on both sides

STEP 4: What is the right tension?
One way to adjust the chain to the correct tension is to throw a 8 or 10mm wrench into one of the sprocket teeth and tighten the chain down hard

STEP 5: What is the right tension?
Another way to get the correct tension is to use the old two finger method like you see here. Either way you set the tension, is fine. Remember this: do not make it so tight that when the suspension is compressed there is a chance the chain will snap..and don't make it so loose that there is a chance it will pop, or dig into your plastic, swingarm and shift lever.

STEP 6: Alignment
The alignment of the chain is very important. If your chain is misaligned, it will wear quicker and affect the transfer of power. The little notches on your swingarm are ok for a quick check, but to get alignment right, you need a more accurate approach. You basically need to make sure that the left side is adjusted the same distance as the right side

STEP 7: Alignment Part 2
You can check the alignment three ways after you get it close with the swingarm notches: By sight, with a tape measure, or with a chain alignment tool. Aligning by site is ok if you have not other tools. You can use a tape measure or a chain alignment tool (available at Motion Pro and some other tool manufactures) to make sure each side is the same distance from the swingarm pivot to the rear axle.

STEP 8: Tighten Up
Once the chain is aligned correctly and your adjustment is set, you can tighten the lock nuts on the adjuster stem and tighten up the axle nut. When you tighten the axle nut though, make sure that you push the rear wheel against the stops on the adjuster. Also, it is a good idea to stick a cotter pin through the axle nut to ensure that it cannot come off.

HOW TO: CLEAN AN AIR FILTER
STEP 1: Remove Filter
Remove the filter being careful not to drop any dirt into the carburetor boot.
STEP 2: Clean Filter
Soak filter in a type of solvent [Soap and Water, Simple Green or Air Filter Cleaner] in a tub for 3-5 minutes. Work out any trapped dirt or particles. The most important thing is that the inside of the filter is free of any particles whatsoever.
STEP 3: Clean Airbox
While filter is soaking: clean air box (make sure to remove the grease off air box sealing surface) and filter cage.
STEP 4: Rinse Filter
Rinse Filter with warm water. Make sure all dirt particles are removed. Repeat step 2 if necessary
STEP 5: Dry Filter
Use Compressed air or leave in clean area to air dry.
STEP 6: Oil Filter
Soak filter in filter oil. Squeeze excess oil out of the filter so that a light coat of oil remains. Apply light coat of grease on seating surface
STEP 7: Install Filter
Install the cage in filter and install filter into airbox. Apply light coat of grease on seating surface. Before installing check carburetor boot for dirt. Clean any grease off of airbox so that it won't collect dirt. You'll ride better with a bike that breathes properly

How To Make Your Clutch Pull Easier

Arm pump and concentration are both effected by your clutch pull. Don't let simple maintenance put you at the end of the pack. Check out this quick guide to easy clutch pull action.

Step 1: Maintain your clutch cable. Before doing anything else, ask yourself when the last time was that you lubricated your clutch cable. When your bike rolled off the showroom floor, your clutch worked perfectly. The only reason that it does not now is due to mechanical differences.

Step 2: Check the following:-If the cable is frayed.-If the pivot point on the lever is in working order, lubricated sufficiently, damaged or too tight.-Adjustment of the clutch. If clutch is adjusted too far out, it may be time to change the plates. Step 3: If all of your checks from Step 3 seem ok and you have lubricated the cable, but the clutch still pulls hard, the problem may lie in the clutch springs. You can get springs with different spring rates. A low spring rate will allow easier pulling, but will wear the plates out quicker.

How to Clean Your Cables

Is your clutch a little rough on the pull? Make it pull smoother by lubricating the cable. To insure smooth pulling cables, maintenance should be done on approximately the same schedule as changing a top end at the bare minimum.
Step 1: Remove cable ends. It is easiest to remove the end at the lever first. This happens to be a clutch cable so you have to remove the side cover to get to the cable end.
Step 2: Use a cable lubing tool. You can get these at any local bike shop. Clamp it around the cable and tighten the screw.
Step 3: I use a simple light spray lubricant to clean the cable first. You will be suprised at how much black junk will run out the other end. Spray untill the liquid coming out is fairly clear. This indicates that the cable jacket is now fairly clean.
Step 4: Now use a cable lube and finish up the job. You can use any number of products from Bel-Ray, Maxima, and many others. You want a good silicon or teflon coating to help the cable slide frictionless in the jacket.
Step 5: Hook the cable back up starting with the end away from the lever. Then hook it up to the lever and adjust according to personal preference.

HOW TO: BLEED AIR FROM YOUR BRAKES

If your brakes are feeling a bit spongy orlocking up at the worst times then air has built up in the line and its probably time to bleed them.
STEP 1: Level It UpIn order to fill the master cylinder up to capacity and get all of the air out, you must make it level. Once the master cylinder is level, you can take the cap off.
STEP 2: Find The Bleed ValveFind the bleed valve, take the cap off and attach a rubber hose (unless you like cleaning up a floor full of oil). Feed the hose into a bucket to collect the oil that you will be bleeding out.
STEP 3: Make Em StickSqueeze the brake lever (or pedal) a couple times to build up pressure in the line. Do not release.
STEP 4: Bleed Away.With pressure still on the lever, crack the bleeder valve. Tighten the valve down again and release the lever.
Step 5: Firm Brakes?Fill the master cylinder to the fill line and feel the firmness of your brakes. If they are to your liking, put the cover back on. If not, repeat steps 3 and 4 until they are.

HOW TO: CHANGE A TIRE
Changing a tire is not easy. It is a skill that takes many attempts to perfect. It can be frustrating and annoying. It is a process that takes patience and a cool head. If you go trying to manhandle the thing, chances are you'll end up with bloody knuckles and maybe an ulcer.
Step 1: Take off you wheel and place it on cardboard or something soft, sprocket side down (unless you like bloody knuckles). Clean up the wheel especially around the valve stem and rim lock. Loosen the rim lock nut and pull the valve core completely out using a valve core remover. You can purchase a valve core remover at any auto parts store.
Step 2: With all of the air out of the tube, the next step is to break the bead. This may take a little force. Put pressure on one side of the tire with your knees and push down with your hands on the other to get the bead of the tire to separate from the rim. If the bead won't break, you may need to use tire irons.
Step 3: Using motorcycle tire irons, start at the rim lock and pry the tire over the rim. It is best to have a couple tire irons and work in small increments. Concentrate on one section at a time until you make it back to the rim lock. Be careful not to pinch the tube and BE PATIENT.
Step 4: Once you get one side of the tire popped off the rim, you can go ahead and pull the tube out. It is a good idea to put the core back in and fill the tube to check for leaks before you put it back in.
Step 5: With one side of the tire off, you can stand it vertical and work the other side off of the rim with tire irons and your body weight.

Step 6: Ok, its new tire time. Spread some baby powder on the bead of the tire. Work one side of the tire onto the rim the same way you did to pull it off. Next, stuff the tube into the tire. Make sure that the tube has all of the air removed and is not twisted up. Insert the valve stem into its hole and thread the lock nut on.
Step 7: Similar to how you worked the tire off of the rim, start at the valve stem and work in one direction to the rim lock. Then work in the other direction from the stem to the rim lock. Work in small increments and be extremely careful not to pinch the tube. You may need to kneel on the tire at times to hold it down.
Step 8: Once the tire is on, put the valve core back in the stem. Use soap to or a tire lubricant to lubricate the bead and allow it to pop into place. Fill the tire to about 40 pounds of pressure and let it sit for a while to see if it leaks. Tighten the rim lock nut. Note: Make sure that the bead is even all the way around the tire. If it is not, you may need to take the air out and refill to get it right.

HOW TO: REBUILD YOUR TOP END (2Stroke)
Changing your top end or just your rings are one of the most important maintenance skills to have. If you ride or race a lot, you may be changing your top end often.
THE PARTS:
-Piston
-Rings
-Gasket Kit
-Wrist Pin
-C Clips
STEP 1:
Remove the exhaust by removing the springs that hold the pipe to the cylinder. Then remove the bolts that hold it to the frame.
STEP 2:
Remove the radiator hose from the water pump area to allow all of the coolant to drain out of the system. While the coolant is draining this is the perfect time to remove the seat and gas tank.
STEP 3:
This is more of a reminder of a good practice than a step. Make sure you lay out all your nuts, bolts and hardware in an orderly manner so that reassembly is just as smooth as disassembly.
STEP 4:
Loosen the Phillips head clamps that hold the carburetor. I usually leave the sub frame in place and just work the carb out and lay it to the side
STEP 5:
By this point all of the coolant should be drained so REMEMBER to remove the bucket you used to catch the coolant. Otherwise you will be following this step.
STEP 6:
Remove the six bolts (commonly 8 mm head) that hold the reed cage in. Inspect the Reeds for chips or cracks. Also check the rubber intake boot for cracks.
STEP 7:
Disconnect any external Power Valve Linkages that you may have. Yamaha owners will have to deal with this set.
STEP 8:
Remove the motor mounts that connect from the head to the frame. This should be 3 bolts and 2 brackets.
STEP 9:
Loosen the six 12mm head nuts that hold the head on the cylinder. I only loosen them right now to make it easier to get off after we pull the cylinder, but we won't get any dirt in the moto if we leave the head in place. Remove the four nuts that hold the cylinder to the crankcase and slowly and evenly lift the cylinder and head off the motor.
STEP 10:
Check the Power Valve assemblies that are sticking down in to the exhaust ports. They should be clean and free moving to insure proper function.
STEP 11:
This piston shows some signs of wear but still is well within the service limits allowed. Remove one of the clips that hold the wrist pin in place. To do this you will need a pair of needle nose pliers. Slide the pin out and remove piston and bearing from end of rod.
STEP 12:
With the way that the cylinders are built today, unless you have an excessive amount of dirt go thru your motor, ring break, piston clip come out, or crank bearings go bad, you will not have to worry if the cylinder is wore beyond service limits. Its Rebuild TimeNOTE: It is a very good idea to place a rag or paper towel over the opening in the engine while putting the bike back together. There are many small pieces and it is not fun when you drop one into the bottom end.
STEP 13:
Insert the new C Clip into one side of your new piston. This can be a bit tricky, so you will have to be patient. Use a pair of needle nose pliers, get one end in the groove, then twist the other end into the groove as well. If you put your thumb over the end that you put in the groove first, it will be less likely to pop out.
STEP 14:
Coat the wrist pin bearing with the same 2 cycle Pre-Mix oil that you put in your gas. Prior to putting the piston on the rod, slide the wrist pin half way into the piston.
STEP 15:
Place the piston over the end of the rod, oil the new wrist pin (Pre-Mix Oil) and slide into piston (Make sure you put the piston in the correct direction. Most have an arrow on the top that points to the front of the motor. The other means of identifying direction is that the intake side (back) of the piston will have a cut out in the skirt. Refer to piston pic above). Put in the other piston C clip so that the wrist pin cannot slide out.
STEP 16:
Put the new rings on the piston. Install the bottom ring first and then the top.(Depending on your bike, you may only have one ring.) In 2 stroke motors both rings are the same so you don't have to worry about which one is the top or bottom ring. To put the bottom ring on, put the end of the ring in the top groove and roll it onto the piston bypassing the top groove with the other end and placing it in the bottom groove. Continue to roll it around until it is completely in the bottom groove. Then install the other ring in the top groove on the piston. Refer to picture of rings above.
STEP 17:
Align the rings to that the end gaps are over the locating pins in each ring groove. Compress the rings with your fingers and slide the cylinder over the top of the piston. Once the piston and rings are up into the cylinder continue to slide it downward as far as possible. You can also slowly move the kickstarter to bring the piston up so that you can seat the cylinder back down on the crank case.
STEP 18:
It is simple from here, Begin replacing the nuts for the cylinder and torque to proper specs. Now put the head back on and torque the nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque. The Torque spec is very important! You can get these from your owners manual or local dealer.
STEP 19:
Reinstall the reeds and intake boot. Remember to Torque properly.
STEP 20:
Reinstall the carburator and tighten the clamps that hold it in place.
STEP 21:
Reinstall the radiator hoses, fill coolant to proper level, seat, gas tank, and exhaust. Put in a new spark plug.
STEP 22:
Double check your work, make sure bolts and nuts are properly torqued and everything has been reinstalled.
STEP 24:
Now you are ready to start your machine. Allow it to run until warm, shut it down and allow it to cool fully and recheck all nuts and bolts for proper torque.
STEP 25:
BREAK INThere are many different theories on break in procedure, so here is ours. Basically, when breaking in an engine, you do not want to strain it in anyway, never go above 3/4 throttle, don't ride in sand and try to keep it on flat ground:Note: You will be riding the bike at half throttle. To avoid fouling the plug, you may want to install a hotter one.1) Start the bike and warm it up. Ride for about 10 minutes at half throttle. Shut it off and allow it to cool.2) Check for any leaks and noises and pull the plug to check it.3) Start the bike, warm it up and ride for about 20 minutes. Shift through the gears, but do not use more than half throttle. Allow the bike to cool. Check all components of the bike, look for leaks and check the spark plug.4) If the bike looks good, not making any funny noises and is not leaking, you are good to go and the bike is ready to be put through its paces.

Maintenance

Proper maintenance of your scooter will be beneficial and essential. The following information are general principles and applicable to most models and maker of scooters.

MOTORIZED SCOOTER

Fuel and Oil Mixture:
A two stroke engine was chosen for it's excellent power to weight ratio. A two stroke engine does not require that you ever change the oil; however it does require that you mix quality grade 2 stroke oil with the gasoline prior to filling your scooters gas tank. This ensures that your engine will remain lubricated and give you reliable service.

To accomplish this you can buy 2 stroke oil at almost any auto parts store or hardware store. It is very important to use quality 2 stroke oil, not the cheapest one. The oil and gas are the mixed together in a separate container before filling the scooter. Although regular unleaded gas can be used, we highly recommend using gasoline with a octane rating of 91 or higher. The mixture should be done at a 25:1 ratio (See ratio chart below). mixing the gas and oil too lean can cause the engine to run too hot resulting in permanent engine damage. Mixing the gas and oil too rich will cause decreased performance and result in a fouled spark plug. We recommend the 25:1 ratio for the first 20 hours for proper break in and lubrication of the engine. After the 20 hours you can mix 40:1 for the best performance.

1 gallon of gas : 5 ounces of 2 stroke oil
2 gallon of gas : 10.25 ounces of 2 stroke oil
3 gallon of gas : 15.5 ounces of 2 stroke oil
4 gallon of gas : 20.5 ounces of 2 stroke oil
5 gallon of gas : 25.5 ounces of 2 stroke oil

Spark Plug:
The spark plug is a crucial and vulnerable part on your two stroke engine. Your spark plug can be located on the top of the engine under the protective rubber boot. Your scooter comes with a tool kit containing a spark plug wrench for easy removal.

The spark plug must be clean, and must be replaced promptly when signs of wear begin to show. The condition of the spark plug can tell you a lot about how you�re motor is running. The spark plug should be a light brown or golden color like the picture on the left. If the electrode is white, that can be a sign that your scooter is running too hot. This can be a result of either running too lean (See the Carburetor section), or that the fuel and oil mixture is too lean (See the Fuel and Oil mixture section). If you are running your scooter too rich then your spark plug may be black, covered with gas, oil, or carbon.

Another common problem is that the spark plug gets clogged up with carbon and/or oil and "fouls". This should be checked by assuring the electrode has a clean gap of .023 in. If you are having a problem with fouling, just be sure that the gap, as shown to the left, is clean and free of obstruction, A small piece of a fine grit sandpaper usually works well for this. New spark plugs can be purchased from us on our parts page, or at almost any local hardware or auto parts store.

Air Filter: The air filter is used to clean the air going into the engine. Periodic cleaning of this filter is recommended to protect your gas scooter engine against the damaging effects of dirt and abrasive particulates. Your air filter can be located on the front of the engine and the protective cover can be removed with one screw.

When the protective cover is removed the air filter is revealed. You can also see the small workings of the choke and butterfly valve.

The filter should be free from dirt and grease and appear clean like the one shown here. If there are contaminants on the filter it can be cleaned in a container of gasoline. Allow the filter to dry before re-installing it into your gas scooter.

Chain:
The chain on your scooter should be lubricated before every ride. The chain should also be checked for tightness on a regular basis. If the chain is too loose a popping sound can be heard and the scooter will jerk under acceleration, or the chain will just jump off altogether.. If the chain is too tight it will be noisy and bind, this can be felt by pushing the scooter with the motor off.

On the 22.5cc scooter there is a chain driven gear reduction which must also be lubricated before each ride. This gear reduction chain does is not adjustable and must be replaced when an unacceptable amount of slack is present.

Access for lubrication can easily be obtained through a small lubrication hole on the top of the chain guard.

When making any adjustments to the chain it is very important to ensure the chain and sprockets are perfectly aligned. If they are not the chain will most certainly come off. To properly align the chain you must get your eye level with the chain. Make sure that all components are aligned before tightening the fasteners. Refer to the pictures above to see what the chain should and shouldn't look like.

The rear tire held on by an axle and two locking eyebolts. To adjust the chain loosen the axle bolts and the locking nuts. Use the eyebolt adjustment nuts to tighten and align the rear tire. Once the chain is snug and straight tighten the axle nuts. Finally cinch down the locking nuts on the eyebolts. Enlarge the picture for better detail.

Sometimes it is difficult to get the chain straight due to the fact that the motor and rear wheel sprocket aren't aligned. If this occurs simply turn the scooter on it's side, loosen the three engine mounting bolts, and the engine can be easily slid to either side to compensate for any misalignment.

Tires:
The tires on your gas scooter are pneumatic (air filled) tires. The tires require 85psi and can be filled via the valve on the side of the tire. It is very important that the tires have the proper inflation. Although the scooter has been prepared to ride once out of the box, due to long shipping distances and elevation changes we have yet to see one scooter with the correct pressure right out of the box. Low tire pressure will make the scooter feel sluggish and a loss of power will be felt. Remember: 85psi

You will notice that the valve on the 22.5cc front tire is turned to the side a little and is not straight out. This is intentional to keep the valve from hitting the frame of the scooter as the wheel turns. If the valve is not angled you will hear a clicking sound every time the tire makes a rotation. To cure this, let all of the air out of the tire. Hold the tire with one hand and the rim with the other. Twist the tire one way and the rim the other. This will cause the tire to "slip" on the rim and make the valve turn to one side. Once this is achieved refill the tire to 28 psi.

Throttle:
There are two main types of scooter throttles. One is a twist type, and the other is a hand throttle. Although the throttles are different in operation, they are essentially mechanically the same. When the rider applies the throttle, a cable carries this motion down to the engine. For continued smooth operation it is important to keep this cable clean and free of obstructions. Should the throttle begin to feel loose and sloppy, the slack can be adjusted on the cable at the handlebars. Simply loosen the lock nut and adjust the cable tension via the adjustment screw. Once the desired tension is achieved retighten the lock nut.

Brakes:
The brake on your gas scooter is a cable actuated drum brake. This style brake has proven well over time and is very simple to maintain. The rear brake has two main adjustments. The easiest of the two is the adjustment on the handbrake itself. This adjustment has two simple steps. To change the tension on the cable merely back off the locking nut and screw the adjustment screw in or out accordingly. Once the desired tension is achieved re tighten the locking nut.
Further adjustment can be made at the brake drum itself. This task is easiest with two people. First, loosen the adjustment at the handlebar hand brake and screw it all the way in . Next go to the rear brake and loosen the Cable Clamp. Once loose, pull back on the cable and have the second person push forward on the Brake Cable Lever (push hard, you are pushing against a tight spring action). While pushing the lever forward and pulling the cable back, quickly tighten the cable clamp. Additional minor adjustments can be made where the cable meets the rear brake.

Carburetor:
The carburetor has many adjustments on it and it is recommended that these adjustments be made by experienced persons only, however we will point out the major points. The carburetor is responsible for pumping the fuel and mixing it with the air at a precise measurement. The carburetor does this with very small diaphragms, orifices and ports, which are easily clogged by contaminants. This is why is is extremely important that you use only clean new fuel in your gas scooter.

Choke:
First, the choke. There is a choke lever on the side of the motor as pictured on the right. Some scooters have "off" written at the top, and "on" written at the bottom. This is incorrect. The correct position of the choke is:
UP - CHOKE IS ON
DOWN - CHOKE IS OFF

Primer:
When the scooter is brand new, been run out of gas, been sitting for a long period or is very cold, it may be necessary to prime the carburetor before attempting to start it. This is accomplished with the primer pump bowl located at the bottom of the carburetor. Simply press and release this pump several times until gas can be seen flowing through the clear gas return line to the fuel tank. This will help start the scooter under the aforementioned conditions, however if this is done once the scooter has warmed up it may induce flooding.

Jet:
Due to the fact that the carburetor mixes the fuel and air at an exact ratio, elevation, temperature, humidity and other weather related variables can have a detrimental effect on your scooter's performance. The manufacturer pre-adjusts your scooter at near sea level and depending where you live your scooter may require adjustment. The adjustment screw, or "jet", can be located in the access hole just to the right of the choke lever. Turning the screw clockwise will lean the mixture while turning the screw counterclockwise will richen the mixture. It is recommended that the jet be adjusted no more than 1 turn at a time. Test the scooter between turns and once peak performance we achieved we recommend richening the adjustment 1 turn. This is due to the fact that the leaner the engine is run, the hotter it will get, and this can induce a possible seizure of the engine from overheating.

Idle:
If the scooter will not idle or idles too fast, an adjustment screw is provided next to the choke. Turning this screw clockwise will increase the idle speed. Turning the screw counterclockwise will decrease the idle speed. Remember that an idle speed that is too fast can be dangerous.

ELECTRIC SCOOTER
If you feel comfortable being a bit handy, you can probably fix many of the problems with your scooter as long as you have the proper tools, replacement parts and patience.

To get replacement parts, you should check with a local retailer selling that sells your particular model of scooter. Another great option that can save you money is to look on the Internet; there are retailers of replacement scooters parts online and often, you can get a better deal with them since they do not have the same overhead as a retailer in your town.

Here are the most common problems that arise with e-scooters:

Battery replacement

Throttle replacement

Belts / Chains replacement

Flat tires

Fuse replacement

Motor replacement

Controller replacement

You should get to know as much as possible about your e-scooter (electric scooter) by doing so, you will get an advantage. Many of the times, people will fix what they know and what they can fix (or they will repair the smaller problems) and then hire a qualified mechanic to fix the other repairs that are major and more problematic. For example, you may find it no problem with replacing the controller or fuse but you feel uncomfortable taking on the motor replacement.

To follow up with this example, here is how you can replace the fuse on an electric scooter: When the fuse blows, there is a bigger problem underlying it. Be prepared to search for a replacement since some fuses are very difficult to find. Again, after checking with your local scooter retailer, expand your search to the Internet. Once you have your fuses, you may want to start the diagnostics.

Start by disconnecting the battery pack from the motor and controller. Make sure that the switch is in the "off" position! Insert the new fuse and then turn the switch to the "on" position. If the fuse blew, this means you have a short in the wiring. Look around for black or darkened spots that could still be warm to the touch. If the fuse does not blow, turn the switch back to the "off" position, connect the controller, and move the switch back to "on."

If the fuse blows at this point, this is a sign that the controller is bad and will need to be replaced. Move the switch to "off", replace the controller, and then move the switch back to "on." On certain types of electric scooters, the controller is embedded within the motor housing. If this is the case, both the controller and the motor housing would have to be replaced.

If the fuse does not blow for the controller, turn the switch to "off", connect to the motor, and again move the switch to the "on" position. If the fuse blows at this point, that means you have either a bad motor or bad wiring. You would go through the same exercise of turning the switch to "off", replace the motor and/or wiring, and then turning the switch back to "on."

TIP: A good thing to do is use your sense of smell while you are doing the diagnostic. If you smell a burning or hot smell, then you can be certain something is wrong.

VERY IMPORTANT REMINDER: Never replace the fuses with a higher amp fuse than what you are replacing.

With some good common sense, you can handle most of the problems yourself. You can always contact the manufacturer or use the power of the Internet to learn how to maintain your electric scooter of bicycle.

SCOOTER MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST
Before operating your electric scooter:

Make sure the tires are inflated properly. Small tires loose air pressure quickly and must be aired frequently. Most small tires can accept air pressure to 85 psi. This allows the tire to properly contact the surface and keeps the tube from rotating inside the tire during braking and acceleration. If the tube rotates, the valve stem will possibly be cut or torn from the inner tube. This will require replacement of the inner tube.

Charge the battery. Batteries should be charged frequently, especially after prolonged usage that runs the battery down. Allow the batteries to cool for an hour or more before charging. Heat will damage batteries and it is helpful to keep batteries as cool as possible during use or charging.

Keep the right tension on your drive belt (or chain) during use. A loose drive belt will allow the teeth to slip and wear at an excessive rate. Failure of the belt will occur due to slippage or the heat generated due to improper tension. The belt can be adjusted by moving the rear tire forward or aft. Check your specification, but look for approximately one-half to one-quarter inch give when pressing against the middle of the span. It is important to prevent slippage.

When you change a belt due to wear be sure to center it so that it does not ride against the side of the belt hubs on the motor or rear tire. If it is not centered properly it will cause the belt to try to jump up on the edge of the hub and cause a tear in the edge of the belt which will eventually cause the belt to completely separate. We only have a very limited replacement warranty for belts due to improper installation and replacement. Please check your belt often after replacement to insure it is properly installed and centered on the drive hubs.

Lightly oil throttle and brake linkages to prevent binding. Check nuts and bolts to insure they are tight and cannot come loose. Wipe down the chrome pieces to prevent rust.

Do not ride electric scooters through water or mud, or even on wet grass since water can cause failure of the electrical components! Electric scooters are meant to be ridden on dry hard surfaces.

PROBLEMS AND POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS
No power/ system wont charge
In this situation we will assume that the battery has been charged or allowed to stand for several hours (a battery will normally self-charge up to a point and make the scooter power up for a fair distance). There are generally two main suspects:
1) First suspect a loose or broken connection. Take the top or deck off to see the wiring and inspect it for any loose or broken connections on the battery, switch, controller, etc.
2) Second suspect the controller box has failed. Since the controller is the heart of the system it can fail in many ways to prevent current from being supplied to the motor.
3) Other less likely suspects can be:
_ A battery that is completely open, supplying no current and possible even testing as having no voltage. It can be very briefly shorted with a wire to see if an arc is produced, revealing current is present. See Below for more advise on batteries.
_ It is also possible to have a bad brake lever or throttle since both have wiring and switches or variable controls. The brake lever has a power cut-off switch. The throttle variably controls the speed of the scooter.
_ The scooter On/Off switch can be defective. Without a good switch the scooter has no power, but the test of this is the power light. Does the power light come on when the switch is activated to the On position?

Power for only short distance use after fully charging.
Suspect the battery charger or the battery as the primary cause of short distance riding after a lengthy or full charge. If your battery charger does not have charging indicator lights then you may not be charging the battery at all if the charger is defective. The battery may be self-charging to about 60% on it's own. If the battery is getting old then it may not be able to hold a full charge and the battery will need replacement. When suspected you can very briefly arc across the battery terminals with an insulated wire to see if it produces a nice arc. It is also possible to test some individual battery 12 volt cells using 12 volt motors or lights that will show you the available current capability. Is the 12 volt light dim on a charged battery? Does the 12 volt motor run slowly when connected to the cell? Similar type tests can be performed using a 24-volt battery cell, too. WARNING! Batteries contain acid that can explode, or the vapors ignite from an arc. Batteries produce current and voltage that can burn you when a shorted circuit occurs. Be absolutely sure you know what you are doing before trying any tests to eliminate a component from consideration of being defective!!!

You can take the battery to a shop capable of testing the battery under a loaded condition. Fully charge the battery and carefully remove it. Let a technician determine the condition of the battery for you.

We absolutely recommend a high quality Battery Charger as sold on our scooter parts page. This 24 volt charger provides an on/off indicator light plus a battery status light - Red for charging and Green for charged (no longer charging). It also prevents over charging with auto shut-off circuitry. This will increase the life expectancy of your battery.